What to do if JBL Charge 3 or JBL Charge 4 not Charging?
By Robert Jones · 2021-07-17
Got a JBL Charge 3 or 4 that's stopped charging? I've seen this a million times. Let's get stuck in and figure out why it's playing up and how to get your tunes back on. Don't chuck it just yet, eh?
Right then, you've got a JBL Charge 3 or a Charge 4, and it's decided to pack it in. No charge, no tunes, just sitting there looking pretty but doing diddly squat. It's a right pain, isn't it? I've seen this scene play out more times than I care to count, not just with JBL kit but with all sorts of portable tech. And believe me, it's frustrating when your go-to speaker won't play ball. I've had a fair few of these come through the workshop over the years, or mates ringing me up asking for advice. The Charge series, especially the 3 and 4, were cracking bits of kit for their time. Proper workhorses, good sound for the size, and tough as old boots with that waterproofing. But even the most reliable gear can throw a wobbly, and charging issues are probably top of the list for portable speakers. **Quick Verdict:** Most JBL Charge 3/4 charging issues are fixable with a bit of patience and common sense.  *What to do if JBL Charge 3 or JBL Charge 4 not Charging? — tested in the SpeakersMag workshop.* ## First Things First: The Obvious Bits (But Don't Skip 'Em!) Before you start chucking it out the window or dismantling it with a screwdriver, let's run through the dead simple stuff. Honestly, you'd be amazed how often one of these basic checks sorts things right out. I've lost count of the times I've gone to a mate's place, or someone's brought a speaker in, convinced it's kaput, and it just needed a cable pushed in properly. ### Is it Actually Plugged In? Sounds daft, doesn't it? But seriously, give it a proper check. Both ends of the cable – where it goes into the wall (or power strip) and into the JBL speaker itself. Give 'em a bit of a wiggle. Make sure they're sitting snugly. Sometimes the USB-C on the Charge 4 or the Micro USB on the Charge 3 can be a bit particular. Worn ports or a slightly off-kilter cable can make all the difference. ### Try a Different Socket House wiring can be a mystery, and wall sockets do fail. It's not super common, but it happens. Or maybe the extension lead you're using is on the blink. Just try plugging your charger into a completely different wall socket. Eliminates one variable, doesn't it? ### The Cable, The Cable, The Cable! This is a big one. USB cables, especially the smaller Micro USB and USB-C types, take a beating. They get bent, twisted, stood on, shoved in bags. The internal wires fray, or the tiny pins inside the connectors get squashed or corroded. If you've got another compatible USB cable lying around – a good quality one, mind – swap it out. I've got a box full of these things in the workshop, and a good 30% of "faulty" gadgets that come in are just down to a dodgy cable. Don't use those super-cheap pound shop cables for anything critical if you can help it. They're often barely fit for purpose. ### Try a Different Power Adapter Just like the cable, the wall adapter can fail. Or maybe the one you're using isn't powerful enough. The JBL Charge 3 typically came with a 5V/2.3A adapter, and the Charge 4 often used a 5V/3A or 9V/2A (via USB-C PD) adapter. Using a low-power phone charger might technically provide some juice, but it'll take ages and sometimes the speaker won't even register it as charging, especially if it's totally flat. Try a known good adapter, ideally one rated similarly to what came with the speaker, or at least a decent modern smartphone charger from a reputable brand like Samsung, Anker, or even an iPad charger. No cheap knock-offs, please. They can cause more problems than they solve. ## Diving a Bit Deeper: Software and Firmware Hiccups Right, if the basic checks haven't sorted it, it might be something a bit more electronic, or even just a software glitch. These smart speakers are basically tiny computers, and like any computer, they can get stuck in a loop or crash. ### The Old Reset Trick Ah, the classic "turn it off and on again." Works wonders, sometimes. For the JBL Charge 3, you're usually looking at holding down the **Volume Up (+) button and the Bluetooth button** simultaneously for about 10 seconds. You should hear a chime or the speaker will power off. Then try charging it. For the JBL Charge 4, it's typically the **Bluetooth button and the Volume Down (-) button** for about 10-15 seconds. Again, listen for a tone or watch for the lights. This forces the speaker to reboot its internal software, clearing out any temporary glitches. It's a good first port of call after checking the cables and chargers. ### Firmware Update (If it'll power on at all) This one's a bit trickier if it's not charging at all, but if you can get *any* sign of life from it, even for a moment, it's worth checking. Connect your speaker to the JBL Connect app (or JBL Portable app for Charge 4). See if there's a firmware update available. Sometimes a bug in older firmware can mess with power management. It's rare to cause a complete charging failure, but I've seen weirder things. If it can power on just enough to connect to the app, give this a whirl. ## Hardware Headaches: When Things Get a Bit More Serious If you've gone through all the above and your JBL Charge 3 or 4 is still playing dead, then we're probably looking at a hardware issue. These can range from annoying to "might as well buy a new one." ### The Charging Port: A Common Weak Point This is probably the most common hardware fault I see on portable speakers. The Micro USB port on the Charge 3 is notoriously fragile – tiny pins, flimsy housing. The USB-C on the Charge 4 is tougher, but still susceptible to wear and tear or physical damage. If you often plug it in in the dark, or yank the cable out at an angle, those ports take a hammering. * **Visual Inspection:** Get a torch (flashlight for you Americans!) and a magnifying glass if you have one. Look right inside the charging port. Are any pins bent, broken, or missing? Is there any fluff, dirt, or debris jammed in there? I've pulled out compacted pockets of lint, biscuit crumbs, even a bit of dried mud from these things. If you see crud, *gently* try to dislodge it with a plastic toothpick or a wooden one. *Never use metal* – you could short something out. If pins are bent, honestly, unless you're handy with a soldering iron and have a steady hand, that's a repair job for a specialist or a new speaker. * **Wiggle Test:** Plug the cable in. Does it feel loose? Does wiggling the cable slightly make the charging light flicker? If so, it's a strong indicator of a faulty port. Again, a repair job. ### The Battery: It Has a Shelf Life Like any rechargeable battery, the ones in your JBL Charge 3 or 4 won't last forever. They have a finite number of charge cycles. After a few years, especially if it's been used heavily, fully discharged often, or left in very hot or cold conditions, the battery health will decline. Sometimes they just give up the ghost completely. * **Swollen Battery:** This is a serious one. If you can see or feel the speaker casing bulging, particularly on the bottom or around the side, that's a sign of a swollen battery. *Stop trying to charge it immediately*. Swollen batteries are a fire risk. This needs professional replacement or disposal. Don't try to open it yourself unless you know exactly what you're doing. * **Deep Discharge:** If you've left the speaker completely flat for months on end, especially in a cold place, the battery might have gone into a "deep discharge" state. Some batteries can't recover from this. Modern speakers have protection circuits, but sometimes they just won't kick back to life. You might get a faint flicker of a light, but it won't take a charge. This often means a new battery is needed. ### Internal Circuitry Damage Less common, but definitely possible. If the speaker has taken a hard fall, or had water ingress (even though they're waterproof, that protection isn't foolproof over time or with major impacts), internal components related to charging could be damaged. A broken solder joint, a fried charging IC (integrated circuit), or water corrosion could be the culprit. This is well into the realm of professional repair, and often, the cost of parts and labour makes it uneconomical compared to a new speaker. ## Who It's For & Who Should Skip It (When it comes to repair) It's always a tough call whether to repair or replace. Here's my two cents. ### Who It's For: * **DIY Enthusiasts:** If you enjoy tinkering, have some basic tools, and are comfortable watching a few YouTube teardown videos, replacing a battery or even a charging port (if you can solder) might be a rewarding project. Parts are available online if you look. * **Sentimental Value:** If that specific speaker has memories attached, or you just really love the sound and don't want to upgrade, a repair makes sense. * **Minor Fixes (Cable/Charger):** If it's just a cable or power adapter, absolutely, buy a new one of those. That's just common sense. * **Budget Conscious (Minor Faults):** If a new cable or charger gets it working, you've saved a chunk of cash. ### Who Should Skip It: * **Non-Techy Types:** If the idea of opening a gadget fills you with dread, don't bother. You're more likely to break something else. * **Major Component Failure (Main Board/Swollen Battery):** For a main circuit board fault or a genuinely swollen battery, the risk-reward isn't there for a DIYer. Plus, swollen batteries are genuinely dangerous. Leave it. * **Uneconomical Repair:** If the cost of a new battery or professional port repair (say, £50-£80) is getting close to the price of a brand new, equivalent speaker (a Charge 5 is around £140-£170 new, and a decent alternative like an Ultimate Ears Boom 3 can be found for similar money or less), then it's a false economy. Put the money towards an upgrade. * **Just Want It Sorted:** If you just want your music back and don't have the time or inclination to mess about, replacement is the path of least resistance. ## Comparison: JBL Charge 3 vs. Charge 4 (And a thought on Charge 5) While this article is about fixing them, it's worth a quick glance at the differences, especially if you're considering replacing a broken one. | Feature | JBL Charge 3 | JBL Charge 4 | JBL Charge 5 (for comparison) | | :---------------- | :----------------------------------------- | :----------------------------------------- | :---------------------------------------- | | **Connectivity** | Bluetooth 4.1, JBL Connect | Bluetooth 4.2, JBL Connect+ | Bluetooth 5.1, JBL PartyBoost | | **Charging Port** | Micro USB | USB-C | USB-C | | **Battery Life** | Up to 20 hours | Up to 20 hours | Up to 20 hours | | **Power Bank** | Yes | Yes | Yes | | **Waterproof** | IPX7 | IPX7 | IP67 | | **Sound** | 2 x 10W drivers (stereo) | 1 x 30W driver (mono) | 1 x 30W woofer, 1 x 10W tweeter (stereo) | | **Dimensions** | 213 x 87 x 88.5 mm | 220 x 95 x 93 mm | 223 x 97 x 94 mm | | **Weight** | 800g | 965g | 960g | | **RRP (at launch)** | Around £150 | Around £160 | Around £160 | So, if you're thinking of chucking your old Charge 3 or 4 because it won't charge, consider what you'd be gaining by moving to a Charge 5. You get a better Bluetooth version, a proper tweeter for clearer highs, and an improved dust/water rating. If the repair is costly, that upgrade might be worth it. ## FAQ: Your Burning Questions Answered ### Q: My JBL Charge 3/4 won't turn on at all, not even a light. What's wrong? A: If there's absolutely no sign of life, even after trying different cables, chargers, and a hard reset, it's usually one of two things: a completely dead battery that won't take a charge, or a main board fault. Check for any swelling of the casing first – that points to a battery issue. If not, it's likely a trip to a repair shop or time for a new speaker, I'm afraid. ### Q: The charging light flickers when I wiggle the cable. Is the port broken? A: More than likely, yes. That's a classic symptom of a worn or damaged charging port. The internal connections are loose or broken, only making contact intermittently. This is a common issue, especially with the Micro USB on the Charge 3. It needs a port replacement. ### Q: Can I use any USB-C charger for my JBL Charge 4? A: Mostly, yes, but aim for a decent quality one. The Charge 4 prefers a charger that can deliver at least 5V at 3A, or if it's a Power Delivery (PD) charger, 9V at 2A will get it going quicker. Using a weak 5V/1A phone charger might be too slow or not register at all if the battery is very low. Stick to trusted brands. ### Q: How long should a JBL Charge 3 or 4 battery last? A: Typically, you'd expect a good 3-5 years of solid use before the battery capacity significantly degrades. The 20-hour playback claim is for a new battery at moderate volume. Over time, that will drop. If you're only getting a few hours of playback, even after a full charge, the battery is past its best and will need replacing. ### Q: Is it safe to leave my JBL Charge 3/4 plugged in all the time? A: Modern electronics like these have charge protection built-in. They stop charging once the battery is full to prevent overcharging. So, in theory, it's safe. However, constantly topping up a battery from 95% to 100% isn't ideal for long-term battery health. I always recommend letting the battery discharge a bit before plugging it back in. And never leave it plugged in for months if you're not using it – that's a recipe for a deeply discharged battery if there's any internal drain. ## Final Word So there you have it. A non-charging JBL Charge 3 or 4 is a pain, but it's usually not the end of the world. Start with the easy stuff – cables, chargers, sockets, and that hard reset. You'd be surprised how often that sorts it. If not, then you're looking at a port or battery issue, which means deciding if a repair is worth the faff and the cash compared to just getting a shiny new speaker. Personally, if it's a Charge 3 with a knackered Micro USB port, and the battery's getting on a bit, I'd probably put the money towards a Charge 5. But if it's a simple fix, great stuff. Get those tunes back on, eh?