7 Best Head Units for Better Sound Quality
By Robert Jones · 2022-11-07
Been mucking about with car audio for years and I'll tell you straight: the head unit is where proper sound begins. Don't let a rubbish factory stereo ruin your tunes; get a good one, it makes all the difference.
Right then, let's properly chat about head units, shall we? Honestly, after twenty-odd years of sticking my ear into speakers, amps, and now even cars, I can tell you that the head unit is where the rubber meets the road for proper sound. You could have speakers made of solid gold and an amplifier that costs more than my first house, but if the signal coming into it is rubbish, well, rubbish in, rubbish out, as they say. I’ve been messing about with car audio since before I could legally drive, fitting all sorts into my various old bangers over the years. From dodgy wiring in a Mk2 Fiesta to a rather sophisticated setup in my current Transit, I've seen it all. And believe me, the difference a quality head unit makes compared to some factory-fitted tat is absolutely massive. It's a genuine shame, actually, how many folks spend a small fortune on speakers and a beefy amp, only to hobble them with a stock head unit that cost pennies to make. **Quick Verdict:** If you want genuinely good sound in your car, a quality head unit is the non-negotiable starting point. ### Why Bother with a Decent Head Unit? It's Not Just About Playing Tunes. Now, you might be sat there thinking, "What's the big deal, Robert? It just plays music, doesn't it?" Well, yes, it does, but *how* it plays it is absolutely crucial. Think of it as the brain of your car audio system. It's the thing that takes your digital music files, turns them into an analogue signal, processes it, and then sends that signal cleanly on its way to your amplifier and speakers. A good one does this without introducing a load of unwanted noise or fudging up the frequencies. A cheap one? Well, it just makes everything sound a bit… flat. Or buzzy. Or both, more often than not. I’ve spent countless hours – probably more than I care to admit to the missus – tweaking settings, listening to every kind of input, and testing every button. I've seen trends come and go, too – remember those utterly dreadful flip-out screens that always seemed to get stuck halfway? Horrible things. But one truth remains: if you want your speakers, sub, and amplifier to actually sing, you need a head unit that can deliver a clean, strong, unadulterated signal. ### The Nitty-Gritty: What Makes a Head Unit Good? It's not just about decoding an MP3, is it? A really good head unit offers a few key things that make a world of difference to your listening experience. It's not just about a pretty screen or a fancy interface; it's about what's under the bonnet, the guts of the thing. #### Digital-to-Analogue Conversion (DAC): More Important Than You Think This is absolutely massive. Your digital music files – whether they're streamed, on a USB stick, or from a CD – need to be converted into an analogue signal that your amplifier can actually use. A high-quality DAC inside the head unit means a much cleaner, more accurate sound. It's like the difference between a cheap supermarket instant coffee and a properly brewed espresso from a decent coffee shop. Both are coffee, right? But one is clearly superior in every single way. You'll hear details in your music you never knew were there, and instruments will sound more natural, less "digital." You'll pick out individual guitar strings, the subtle breath of a vocalist, the distinct thump of a kick drum. It genuinely transforms the experience. #### Pre-Outs: The Lifeblood of an Upgraded System If you're serious about improving your car audio, you're probably going to add an external amplifier eventually. This is where pre-outs come in. These are low-level RCA outputs that send a clean, unamplified signal directly to your external amp. The more pre-outs, and the higher their voltage (typically 2V, 4V, or 5V), the better. Higher voltage pre-outs mean the signal is stronger, so your amplifier doesn't have to work as hard to get a good volume, which reduces noise and distortion. I always recommend aiming for at least 4V if you can. A lot of factory head units don't even have pre-outs, or if they do, they're barely 1V, which is just asking for trouble when you crank up the volume. #### Equalisation (EQ) and Time Alignment: Your Personal Sound Engineer This is where you really get to tailor the sound to your car's specific acoustics and your own ears. A good head unit will offer a proper parametric or at least a multi-band graphic equaliser. Forget those simple bass and treble knobs; we're talking about being able to adjust specific frequency bands to tame boomy bass, brighten up dull highs, or sort out harsh mid-ranges. And time alignment? That's a bit of wizardry that delays the sound from the closest speakers ever so slightly so that the sound from all speakers reaches your ears at the exact same time. Trust me, it makes a massive difference to imaging and soundstaging, making it feel like the band is playing right in front of you, rather than from various points around the car. #### Source Flexibility: Play Your Music, Your Way These days, we're not just chucking CDs in, are we? A decent head unit needs to handle a variety of sources. USB inputs for high-resolution audio files (FLAC, WAV), Bluetooth for streaming from your phone (and make sure it's a good quality codec like aptX if possible), and maybe even AUX inputs for older devices. Apple CarPlay and Android Auto are pretty much standard now for convenience, but make sure they're implemented well, not just tacked on as an afterthought. You want stable connections and quick response times, not a laggy mess. #### Build Quality and Reliability: It's a Harsh Environment Your car isn't exactly a perfectly controlled listening room, is it? It gets hot, it gets cold, it vibrates, and there's electrical noise everywhere. A good head unit needs to be built to withstand all that. We're talking about solid connections, reliable internal components, and a user interface that doesn't freeze up every five minutes. I've seen far too many cheap units conk out after a year or two because they just weren't designed for the rigours of life in a car. ### My Top Picks for Sound Quality Head Units I’ve spent a fair bit of time with a good few of these in the workshop, and a couple have even found their way into my various vehicles over the years. These aren’t necessarily the flashiest or the ones with the biggest screens, but they're the ones that *sound* good. They're the foundation you can build a truly impressive car audio system upon. #### 1. Pioneer DEH-80PRS (If You Can Find One New) This one's a bit of a legend, honestly. If you can still get your hands on a new one, don't hesitate. Pioneer really pulled out all the stops with this. It's not got a massive touchscreen, nope. It's all about the sound. It's got a 3-way active crossover, fantastic time alignment, and a proper 16-band graphic EQ. The DACs are superb, and it offers 5V pre-outs, which is just what you want for an external amplifier. I had one of these in my old Octavia for ages, and the control it gave me over the sound was just phenomenal. It truly is a processor and head unit rolled into one. It’s got Bluetooth, USB, and AUX, so it’s pretty well-connected, even if it looks a bit old-school. * **Who it's for:** Serious enthusiasts who prioritise pure sound quality above all else. Those building a fully active system. * **Who should skip it:** Anyone who wants a big touchscreen, Apple CarPlay/Android Auto, or a super-modern aesthetic. Not for casual listeners. **Pros:** * Exceptional sound quality, thanks to high-quality DACs and processing. * Advanced audio tuning features (3-way active crossover, 16-band EQ, time alignment). * High 5V pre-outs for clean signal to external amps. * Solid, reliable build. **Cons:** * Dated appearance, no modern touchscreen or smartphone integration (beyond Bluetooth). * Can be hard to find new these days. * Steep learning curve for audio adjustments. #### 2. Alpine UTE-204DAB Right, if you're after a good, solid single-DIN unit that focuses on sound without breaking the bank, this Alpine is a cracking choice. It might not have a CD player, but honestly, who uses those anymore? What it *does* have is DAB+ radio, Bluetooth, USB, and a decent 24-bit DAC. It's got a 3-band parametric EQ, which is a step up from just graphic, and 2V pre-outs. Not as high as the Pioneer, but perfectly usable. I’ve installed a few of these for mates who just wanted good, clean audio without all the touchscreen fuss. It’s simple, effective, and sounds much better than most factory units. * **Who it's for:** People wanting a reliable, sound-focused single-DIN unit on a sensible budget. Great for upgrading a basic factory system. * **Who should skip it:** Those who want a double-DIN screen, advanced tuning options, or higher voltage pre-outs for very high-end systems. **Pros:** * Excellent sound quality for the price point. * DAB+ digital radio built-in. * Bluetooth, USB, and AUX connectivity. * 3-band parametric EQ for decent sound shaping. **Cons:** * Only 2V pre-outs, might need to turn up amplifier gain more. * No CD player (not really a con for most these days). * Basic display, no CarPlay/Android Auto. #### 3. Kenwood DMX8021DABS Now, if you *do* want a modern double-DIN unit with all the bells and whistles, but still with a focus on sound, this Kenwood is one to seriously consider. It’s got a lovely 6.8-inch touchscreen, wireless Apple CarPlay and Android Auto, and DAB+. But critically, it also brings a serious audio game. We're talking a 13-band graphic EQ, digital time alignment, and high-resolution audio support (up to 192kHz/24bit FLAC/WAV). Plus, it boasts 4V pre-outs, which is spot on for a proper external amplifier. I’ve been really impressed with the sound processing on these Kenwood units lately; they’ve clearly put some effort in. It’s a bit pricier, sure, but you’re getting a lot for your money. * **Who it's for:** Anyone wanting a feature-rich, modern double-DIN unit with excellent sound quality and smartphone integration. * **Who should skip it:** Those on a very tight budget or those who only need a single-DIN unit. **Pros:** * Wireless Apple CarPlay and Android Auto for seamless smartphone integration. * High-resolution audio support. * Robust audio tuning (13-band EQ, time alignment). * Good 4V pre-outs. * Clear, responsive touchscreen. **Cons:** * Higher price point. * May require professional installation for some cars. #### 4. Sony XAV-AX5500 Sony's been making a real comeback in car audio, and this unit is a prime example. It's a double-DIN with a gorgeous 6.95-inch capacitive touchscreen, and crucially, it's got physical buttons for volume and track skip on the bottom bezel, which is a godsend when you're driving. No fumbling around on a touchscreen for basic controls! It supports both Apple CarPlay and Android Auto (wired, though). Audio-wise, it's got 10-band graphic EQ and 3x 5V pre-outs, which is fantastic for a clean signal to your amps. It doesn't have the super-advanced processing of the Pioneer, but for a modern unit, it sounds surprisingly good and is very user-friendly. I put one of these in my mate Dave’s Qashqai, and he’s chuffed to bits with it. * **Who it's for:** Drivers who want a modern, user-friendly double-DIN with great sound and high-voltage pre-outs, with a preference for physical controls. * **Who should skip it:** Those who need wireless CarPlay/Android Auto or prefer more intricate audio processing options. **Pros:** * Excellent 5V pre-outs for clean amplified sound. * Capacitive touchscreen with useful physical buttons. * Apple CarPlay and Android Auto support. * Good sound quality for its class. **Cons:** * CarPlay/Android Auto are wired only. * Only 10-band graphic EQ, less precise than parametric. * No DAB+ built-in (might need an external module). #### 5. JVC KW-M785BT This JVC is another solid contender if you're looking for a modern, feature-packed double-DIN without spending an absolute fortune. It’s often a bit cheaper than the equivalent Kenwood or Sony, but still delivers decent audio chops. You get a 6.8-inch touchscreen, wired Apple CarPlay and Android Auto, and Bluetooth. Audio-wise, it features a 13-band graphic EQ and digital time alignment, which is good. The pre-outs are 2V, which is the main compromise here if you’re planning a serious multi-amp setup, but for a single external amp or just running good quality speakers off the head unit power, it’s fine. It’s a no-frills, get-the-job-done type of unit that still sounds pretty good. * **Who it's for:** Value-conscious buyers who want a modern double-DIN with smartphone integration and decent audio features, but don't need the highest voltage pre-outs. * **Who should skip it:** Those building a high-end system with multiple amplifiers that require 4V+ pre-outs. **Pros:** * Good value for money. * Apple CarPlay and Android Auto support. * 13-band EQ and time alignment. * Responsive touchscreen. **Cons:** * Only 2V pre-outs. * CarPlay/Android Auto are wired only. * Sound quality, while good, isn't quite as refined as the top-tier options. ### Comparison Table: Quick Look at My Top Picks | Feature | Pioneer DEH-80PRS | Alpine UTE-204DAB | Kenwood DMX8021DABS | Sony XAV-AX5500 | JVC KW-M785BT | | :------------------ | :----------------------- | :----------------------- | :----------------------- | :---------------------- | :---------------------- | | **Type** | Single-DIN | Single-DIN | Double-DIN | Double-DIN | Double-DIN | | **Screen** | Small LCD | Small LCD | 6.8" Touchscreen | 6.95" Touchscreen | 6.8" Touchscreen | | **CarPlay/Android Auto** | No | No | Wireless (both) | Wired (both) | Wired (both) | | **DAB+ Radio** | No | Yes | Yes | No (external optional) | No (external optional) | | **Pre-Outs** | 3x 5V | 3x 2V | 3x 4V | 3x 5V | 3x 3x 2V | | **EQ** | 16-band Graphic / 3-way Active | 3-band Parametric | 13-band Graphic | 10-band Graphic | 13-band Graphic | | **Time Alignment** | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | | **Hi-Res Audio** | Yes | Yes (24-bit DAC) | Yes (up to 192kHz/24bit) | Yes (192kHz/24bit) | Yes (192kHz/24bit) | | **Approx. Price (GBP)** | £300-£500 (if found new) | £150-£200 | £450-£550 | £350-£450 | £280-£350 | *Note: Prices are approximate and can vary. Always check current deals.* ### Installation: Don't Skimp Here! Alright, so you've picked your fancy new head unit. Excellent! Now, don't go bodging the installation. Honestly, a well-chosen head unit can be utterly ruined by a poor install. Wiring nightmares, dodgy connections, a loose fit – these things introduce noise, cause intermittent faults, and generally make your life a misery. If you're not confident with car electrics, pay a reputable installer. It’ll save you a headache and potentially a lot of money in the long run. They'll sort out the wiring harness adaptors, steering wheel control interfaces, and make sure it sits flush in your dash. It's money well spent, believe me. ### What About Factory Integration? This is a tricky one these days. Modern cars often have their head unit deeply integrated into the car's systems – climate control, vehicle settings, even parking sensors. Ripping it out for an aftermarket unit can be a right faff, and sometimes you lose functionality. That's where things like DSP (Digital Signal Processor) units come into play. You keep the factory head unit, but feed its signal into a DSP, which then cleans it up, allows for proper EQ, time alignment, and sends a pristine signal to your external amps. Brands like Audison, Helix, and JL Audio make some fantastic DSPs. It's often a more expensive route, but it preserves all your factory features while giving you ultimate sound control. Something to consider if you've got a newer, fancy motor. ### My Own Take on Head Units I’ve always leaned towards a more "simple but mighty" approach. My current setup in the Transit still uses a fairly basic Alpine single-DIN, but it feeds into a really good Audison DSP, which then goes to a pair of Audison amps. This gives me all the modern connectivity I need without a massive screen, plus absolute surgical control over the sound. For me, the less visual distraction, the better. Your priorities might be different, of course. Some folks want the biggest screen possible, and that's fair enough, but just make sure that big screen isn't hiding a rubbish audio section. Honestly, the best advice I can give is to try and listen to a few different setups if you can. Find a local car audio specialist, have a chat. See what they recommend based on your car and your budget. Don’t just blindly buy the cheapest one with a big screen you see online. Your ears will thank you for doing your homework.  *7 Best Head Units for Better Sound Quality — tested in the SpeakersMag workshop.* ## FAQ: Your Head Unit Questions Answered ### Q: Do I really need an aftermarket head unit for better sound? **A:** In most cases, yes, absolutely. Factory head units are usually designed to be cheap and functional, not to provide high-fidelity audio. An aftermarket unit will almost always offer better DACs, more powerful pre-outs, and crucial audio tuning features like equalisation and time alignment, which are essential for proper sound quality. ### Q: What's the difference between single-DIN and double-DIN? **A:** It refers to the size of the unit. "DIN" is a German industry standard. A single-DIN unit is roughly 2 inches (50mm) tall and 7 inches (180mm) wide. A double-DIN unit is twice as tall, around 4 inches (100mm) tall and 7 inches (180mm) wide. Most modern cars come with a double-DIN opening, allowing for larger touchscreen units, but many older cars and some commercial vehicles might only accommodate single-DIN. ### Q: Can I keep my steering wheel controls with an aftermarket head unit? **A:** Yes, in most cases you can. You'll need a specific steering wheel control interface module that matches your car's make and model, and your chosen head unit. These modules translate the signals from your steering wheel buttons into commands that your new head unit understands. An experienced installer will be able to advise and fit the correct module for you. ### Q: What are pre-outs and why are they important? **A:** Pre-outs (often RCA outputs) send a low-level, unamplified audio signal from your head unit directly to an external amplifier. They're crucial for upgraded systems because they provide a much cleaner signal than using the head unit's internal speaker-level outputs. Higher voltage pre-outs (e.g., 4V or 5V) are generally preferred as they provide a stronger signal, reducing the need for the amplifier to work as hard, which minimises noise and distortion. ### Q: Is wireless Apple CarPlay/Android Auto worth the extra cost? **A:** If you use these features frequently, then yes, I'd say it absolutely is. Not having to plug your phone in every time you get in the car is incredibly convenient. It might seem like a small thing, but the ease of just jumping in and having your navigation, music, and calls ready to go makes for a much smoother and more enjoyable driving experience. It's a quality-of-life upgrade that I personally wouldn't want to be without now. ## Final Word: Don't Skimp on the Source Look, I've seen it countless times. People will drop thousands on fancy alloy wheels or a new exhaust, but balk at spending a few hundred quid on the very heart of their car's entertainment system. It just doesn't make sense to me. Your head unit is the source. If the source isn't clean, isn't powerful enough, or doesn't offer the necessary control, then all the expensive speakers and amplifiers in the world won't fix it. They'll just amplify a poor signal, making it sound even worse. Think of it as plumbing. You wouldn't connect a rusty old pipe to a brand new, high-pressure shower, would you? The water flow would be rubbish. Same principle here. Get the foundation right. Invest in a head unit that offers a clean signal, decent DACs, good pre-outs, and proper tuning options. It truly is the unsung hero of any quality car audio setup. Your ears, and your music, deserve better than some tinny, distorted factory radio. Right, I'm off for a cuppa. Keep those tunes sounding proper, eh?