Soundbars: UK Buying Guide and Reviews

What the channel numbers mean

Every soundbar is described with a figure like 2.0, 2.1, 3.1 or 5.1.2. The first number is how many main speaker channels the bar drives, the second is the number of subwoofers, and the third — when it exists — is the number of upward-firing height drivers used for Dolby Atmos.

In practice, a 2.0 bar is a straight swap for TV speakers. A 2.1 or 3.1 adds a subwoofer and, on the 3.1, a dedicated centre channel that makes dialogue much easier to follow. Anything with a third digit is trying to bounce height effects off your ceiling, which only works if that ceiling is flat, hard and roughly two and a half to three metres up.

• 2.0 — compact, no separate sub, best for bedrooms and small lounges
• 2.1 / 3.1 — wireless subwoofer added; the 3.1 centre channel sharpens speech
• 5.1 — adds rear surround speakers, needs cabling or wireless rears and space behind the sofa
• 5.1.2 and above — adds Atmos height channels, dependent on ceiling shape

Connections: use HDMI eARC where you can

There are three realistic ways to connect a bar. HDMI eARC is the best of them: it carries lossless and object-based formats, passes volume control through your TV remote, and needs a single cable. HDMI ARC is the older version of the same idea and handles compressed Dolby Digital fine, but not the full-fat lossless streams.

Optical is the reliable fallback on older televisions. It carries stereo and Dolby Digital, but it cannot pass Atmos and it will not relay remote volume commands, so you end up juggling two remotes. Bluetooth is convenient for music from a phone but adds latency, which puts lip-sync out on video.

Do you need the subwoofer?

If you mostly watch news, drama and daytime television, a well-tuned bar without a sub is enough and it saves you a box on the floor. If you watch action films, follow live sport, or play games with a lot of low-end effects, a subwoofer changes the experience far more than another hundred pounds spent on the bar itself.

Wireless subs are not truly wireless — they still need mains power — so plan a socket within a few metres of a corner or a wall you can place the sub against. Corner placement raises perceived output, which is useful in a big room and a nuisance in a small flat.

Sizing the bar to the room and the TV

As a rule of thumb, the bar should be no wider than the television it sits under, and ideally within about 15cm of the screen width so it looks intentional. Check the height too: a tall bar in front of a low-standing TV can clip the bottom of the picture or block the infrared receiver.

Room size matters more than raw wattage. A small room excites bass easily and a big bar will boom; a large open-plan space needs the extra drivers and the sub to fill it. Wattage figures are quoted inconsistently across brands, so treat them as marketing rather than a comparison tool.

Soundbar setups by room and use

Buying checklist

• Confirm your TV has HDMI eARC, HDMI ARC or optical, and buy to match
• Measure the TV stand width and the gap under the screen before ordering
• Decide early whether you want a subwoofer — retrofitting is rarely possible
• Only pay for Atmos height channels if your ceiling is flat and hard
• Check the bar supports your TV remote's volume control to avoid two-remote living

Frequently asked questions

Is a soundbar better than TV speakers?

Almost always, yes. Modern televisions are too thin to house speakers with any cabinet volume, so they struggle with bass and dialogue. Even an entry-level soundbar has forward-facing drivers and a proper enclosure, which improves speech clarity immediately.

Do I need a subwoofer with a soundbar?

Not for everyday television. For films, games and sport a subwoofer makes a bigger difference than any other single upgrade, because it covers the low frequencies a slim bar physically cannot reproduce.

HDMI ARC or optical — which should I use?

Use HDMI ARC or eARC if your television offers it. It carries more audio formats and lets the TV remote control the bar's volume. Optical is a solid fallback but cannot pass Dolby Atmos.

Will a soundbar work with any television?

Yes. Any TV made in the last fifteen years has at least an optical or 3.5mm output, and most have HDMI ARC. The only thing to check is which socket you have free.

Does Dolby Atmos work in every room?

No. Upward-firing Atmos drivers bounce sound off the ceiling, so sloped, beamed, very high or soft ceilings scatter the effect. In those rooms a good 3.1 system usually sounds better than a compromised Atmos one.

Should the soundbar sit above or below the TV?

Below, at roughly ear height when you are seated, with nothing blocking the front of the drivers. If it is wall mounted, keep it close under the screen so dialogue appears to come from the picture.